A dark t-shirt is visible under the cardigan, which would slightly detract from the look if it were more visible. The three smarter suits are worn with Brioni shirts that have a semi-spread collar and double cuffs. The collars sit slightly too high on Craig’s neck, encroaching on his Adam’s apple.

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Each characters at the table has a distinct sartorial personalities in their clothes, no matter how minor the role. Le Chiffre is the bad guy because he’s wearing a black shirt and a sumptuous velvet dinner jacket. The attention to detail in every costume around the table contributes to the significance of the casino scenes and to the glamour needed in a Bond film.

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There are some brilliant looks in Casino Royale, like the dinner jacket, the Sunspel Riviera polo, the blue swim trunks, the navy raincoat, the barleycorn topcoat. There’s little to suggest that Bond’s appreciation for fine clothes—and three-piece suits—should have come from his first mission as a Double-O . The symbolism in the wardrobe is too heavy handed, even if it resulted in a number of exceptional outfits.

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• This navy linen suit, worn for the toilet fight and a cut scene in Pakistan, is difficult to see in the film and difficult to properly judge.
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• It demonstrates that Bond has become the familiar, fully formed character after the events of this film.
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The shawl-collar cardigan and the checked trousers are worn together as well as with other items. The light blue linen shirt has a strong two-button collar that looks good on Craig unbuttoned, but it is let down with short sleeves. A linen shirt with long sleeves would not wear much differently in hot weather, yet it would look much better under a suit jacket.

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Short-sleeve shirts again are a poor style choice, but it’s a Fleming Bond detail so in that manner it can be excused. It portrays Bond as a novice suit wearer, which makes sense in the context of the story. He does not wear a tie, which is an effective choice with a casual linen suit. They’re a rare occurrence of Bond wearing brown shoes with a navy suit, but they work perfectly here.

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The topcoat is in a tweed-like barleycorn cloth and has a pleasantly dramatic look when a short jacket could have been equally appropriate. His stylish trousers are in a fine black and white check with an overlaid light blue check. Overall this is one of the best smart casual looks of the series by showing how to look sophisticated while dressing casually in the 21st century. The striped navy suit is a Bond classic, and it’s perfect to demonstrate maturity, but I think it’s out of place on Lake Como. Something sportier, like the checked suit he wears earlier in the film, would have been a more appropriate choice while still conveying the same maturity in a three-piece suit. The light blue poplin shirt is a classic Bond look too, and the blue-and-white honeycomb pattern tie subtly recalls Connery’s navy grenadine ties.

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It has an appropriately modern look for Bond compared to the traditional tan raincoat. Craig’s muscular body in Casino Royale—the most extreme body of the Bond series—is difficult to tailor, both in getting the shape of the clothes to follow the body and in making it look elegant. I think that Hemming and Brioni did a good job at achieving a balance, though I think the shoulders and width of the trouser legs could have been attenuated.

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Before Casino Royale, baggy board shorts had been the popular style of men’s swimwear. Lindy Hemming wanted to show off Craig’s physique, so she put him in trim swim trunks with little coverage and turned him into a sex symbol in a way James Bond never was before. They are the most effective outfit for showing off Craig’s physique, though his polos and t-shirts also excel at this. These trunks changed men’s swim fashions for the better, if only for practical reasons. The outfit is difficult to see because of the dim lighting, dramatic camera angles and black-and-white colouring, but it’s a wonderful choice for a rookie James Bond who isn’t yet a Double-O. In the navy, the pea coat is worn by younger sailors as opposed to officers, so it’s perfect for portraying a less mature version of Bond.

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